If My Patio Has Weeds Coming Up Between the Stones, Will Salt Water Kill the Weeds?

  Mysest56        January 24, 2023

Weeds are tenacious: Give them an inch — or even less — and they’ll take a mile. Weeds can develop even in the smallest cracks on your patio, ruining the appearance of the space. Pulling them by hand is backbreaking work, and lots of home gardeners today are too environmentally conscious to spray chemicals. An environmentally friendly solution employs salt water to kill weeds.

Why Salt Works

Plant roots absorb water, and when that water contains salt, they absorb the salt too. Water moves through the walls of plant cells. The high concentration of salt outside the plant cells leads to the water within the mobile to move out of the cell, making them collapse. In essence — and quite ironically — the plant dies of dehydration. Salt sprinkled directly onto the soil has the exact same effect, but water helps it sink into the soil and be taken up faster by the plant.

Mix It Up

Create a solution by adding 1 cup of salt to 2 cups of boiling water. Stir until the salt is dissolved and then pour the still-hot water right onto the weeds. Because salt will dissolve in cold water, you don’t have to heat the water should youn’t need to utilize warm water, but also the heat in the water will destroy the weeds faster. Salt isn’t discriminatory. If you have nearby, desirable plants — like those that develop along the outer edges of your patio — take care not to get the salt water on these plants, since it will destroy them also.

Things to Consider

Salt destroys the soil for other plants. If you believe you may get rid of the patio and develop plants in that location in the near future — or even a couple of years down the trail — think twice about having salt water to kill the weeds. Consider runoff too. If your patio slopes, then the salt water may run off the patio and contaminate your turf grass or other desirable areas of the landscape, killing the plants and destroying the soil.

Other Options

If you’re worried about destroying the soil, use boiling water with no salt added to destroy the weeds. Boiling water applied directly to weeds kills them in just a couple of days, according to the University of Washington Botanic Gardens website. The only downside of this procedure is that — unlike salt water, which prevents weeds from regrowing in the cracks — boiling water has to be reapplied when the weeds begin to grow back.

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Is It Illegal to Propagate "Goldsturm" Black-Eyed Susan?

  Mysest56        January 21, 2023

Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida var. Sullivantii”Goldsturm”) is a plant that rapidly becomes two, three or perhaps 10 through division or natural reseeding in the span of a couple seasons. The clump-forming, fast perennial, suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, blooms in fall with golden petals around a deep-brown, cone-shaped centre. Even though it has the specific cultivar title”Goldsturm,” the plant isn’t patented, therefore it isn’t illegal to disperse or perhaps sell the new plants you increase.

Around”Goldsturm”

“Goldsturm” was introduced in 1949 in Germany. The title translates into”storm” The plant’s golden flowers bloom for seven to eight weeks beginning in midsummer. “Goldsturm” grows best in full sun to part shade in soil that drains well and can be moderately moist. The plant can tolerate heavy clay and can be. “Goldsturm” reaches 18 to 30 inches tall and reblooms with deadheading.

Propagating “Goldsturm”

“Goldsturm” publicly reseeds from the garden when you don’t deadhead spent flowers consistently. “Goldsturm” is considered a stable cultivar and does reproduce true from seed. Prechilling is needed by seed started inside, known as stratification. They may not bloom in their first year unless seeds are subjected at 32 to 35 degrees F to three to four weeks. Considering that the plant spreads through rhizomes, which are underground stems, to form new clumps,”Goldsturm” could be awakened and separated into fresh plants in autumn or spring.

Patented Plants

When you purchase a plant labeled with a patent number or”Plant Patent Applied For” following the cultivar name, propagating new plants although divisions or cuttings is a no-no. While the”plant authorities” won’t appear on your doorstep — and if they do, then there are no consequences if you are not selling the plants — you should have a twinge of conscience. Breeders who maintain patents receive royalties for each plant licensed to grow their varieties. Patents are meant to encourage the introduction of plants that were new into the market. While the terms of a plant patent take care of the variety from uncompensated asexual propagation for 20 decades, plants may be propagated by the seeds that the blossoms produce and by utilizing its pollen to fertilize other plants to create new hybrids, which are unlikely to resemble the patented parent plant.

Patented Rudbeckia Varieties

While unpatented”Goldsturm” is fair game for asexual distributing, there are patented black-eyed Susan cultivars derived from”Goldsturm” that with no license can only be lawfully propagated by seed. These include”Early Bird Gold,” which blooms in midspring;”Pot of Gold,” which develops 20 to 24 inches tall and has larger flowers than”Goldsturm”; and”Small Goldstar,” which develops only 14 to 16 inches tall with a slightly smaller blossom than its parent. Varieties are acceptable for USDA zones 4 through 9.

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The Different Kinds of Fire Lilies

  Mysest56        January 19, 2023

The frequent name “fire lily” has been applied to these diverse plants as gloriosa lily (Gloriosa), kaffir lily (Clivia), Scarborough lily (Cyrtanthus) along with orange lily (Lilium bulbiferum). On the other hand, the care of the first three is similar — they all need a dormant period and can be kept dry in a cool garage during winter. The kaffir lily will continue to need light, though, and shouldn’t be left unwatered for longer than two months.

Gloriosa Lily

Gloriosa lily flowers are in comparison to claws, with petals curling up like talons in their centers. Gloriosa rothschildiana boasts the biggest red and yellow blooms, while the smaller simplex stays more orange than red; lutea all yellow; and citrina mainly so. A tropical vine, gloriosa lily climbs by using the curling tips of its leaves like tendrils. Although considered hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 9 — or even zone 8 if protected — it is often grown in a pot, since it dies back to the ground in winter and needs to be kept dry during those months. Pick the gloriosa lily’s location carefully — it is very poisonous.

Kaffir Lily

The kaffir lily belongs to the identical family as amaryllis. The most frequent type — Clivia miniata– is the most amaryllis-like, with stout, strappy foliage and a cluster of orange, outward-facing blooms. You can also locate new yellow hybrids, such as “Sir John Thouron,” but must be prepared to pay dearly for them. In the wilds of South Africa, nevertheless, most kaffir lilies — such as Clivia caulescens, cyrtanthifolia, gardenii and nobilis — produce green-tipped reddish flowers that dangle like bows. The plant is only hardy to USDA zone 10, but it’s easy to grow in containers. It ought to be kept slightly stale bound, and demands a six-week cool and dry rest period during the winter to stimulate blossom in the spring.

Scarborough Lily

Also an African indigenous and member of the amaryllis family, Scarborough lily is known as fire lily since it blooms later flames have scorched its habitat. Again, the very popular form, Cyrtanthus elatus, flaunts the most amaryllis-like blooms. This time, however, they are red and decorate a lot slimmer plant. Other types, such as the pink delicata and yellowish ochroleucus, stretch more tubular blooms. Though some sources list these blooms as hardy to USDA zone 9, they need dry conditions during their winter season. The bulbs should, consequently, be potted in gritty dirt with the necks protruding, and kept under a roof during the winter to reduce root rot.

Orange Lily

The orange lily is a European wildflower similar to the tiger lily, named for the bulbils that dot its stems. The upward-facing flower’s color ranges from red to orange with maroon freckles scattered around its middle. Lilium bulbiferum var. Croceum is the strongest grower but lacks bulbils. Shorter and poorer, Lilium bulbiferum var. Chaixii generally manages only one or two blooms, but lots of infant coats. The orange lilies are hardy in USDA zones 7 to 10, and — like most lilies — must be implanted at least 4 inches deep in well-drained dirt.

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The elimination of Bradford Pear Tree Roots

  Mysest56        January 17, 2023

Gardeners in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 5a through 9a appreciate Bradford pear trees (Pyrus calleryana “Bradford”) to get their rapid growth habit, resistance to common diseases such as fire blight, and attractive form. This ornamental cultivar has numerous disadvantages, however, including a inclination to produce weak timber and a bad branch structure. According to the Alabama Cooperative Extension System, most Bradford pears fall apart and die after about 20 years. Many homeowners must cut down weakened or dying Bradford pear trees, a process which could require removal of not only the tree, but in addition its stump and root system.

Killing Shoots

Like several other species, Bradford pear trees store energy in their roots, which can allow them to regrow even after being cut. Shoots can sprout from the stump or anywhere across the roots. They can be killed by repeatedly cutting the shoots until the roots’ energy has been exhausted. You can also reduce the risk of resprouting by fixing the stump and any cut ends with glyphosate or triclopyr herbicides. If you use chemical treatment, take care to not get any herbicide on the grass or nearby plants, because it can result in significant problems.

Encouraging Decay

If you would like to remove the stump and roots of your Bradford pear tree entirely but you do not mind waiting, speeding up the decay process may be the ideal choice. You can encourage decay by cutting on the stump away as close to the ground as possible and covering it with sod or topsoil. Insert a high-nitrogen fertilizer throughout the initial year to further raise stump and root rotting. You may see mushrooms or other fungi appear on your lawn over the main system. These organisms are harmless and can be pulled if they pose an aesthetic issue.

Digging Up Roots

If you want to take out the stump and root system of a Bradford pear tree quickly than it can decay, then digging is the only option. The best way to dig up all the roots is to produce a trench 1 to 2 feet deep and wide around the stump, severing any lateral roots. The stump can subsequently be levered out of this hole. Dig along the larger lateral roots to remove those close to the ground. Any remaining small roots should rot on their own in a relatively short period of time.

Factors

Stump and root removal can be extremely difficult and time consuming. If the remnants of your Bradford pear tree are not causing any problems, think about leaving them to decay naturally. You can conceal stumps by turning them to planter bases or by placing ivy and other twining plants nearby. If you’re concerned about lawn care, simply cut the stump off level with the ground to allow the lawnmower to pass it over without harm.

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Do Raspberry Bushes Have Thorns?

  Mysest56        January 14, 2023

Raspberries (Rubus idaeus), a bramble fruit, grow in dense, thorny thickets, but regular pruning keeps them neat and contained. Most raspberry bushes have thorns, but a few cultivated varieties are thornless. Hardiness varies by cultivar and goes from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9.

Raspberry Canes

Raspberries are a member of the Rosaceae, or climbed, plant family. Like roses, most raspberries have sharp thorns on their canes. Raspberry shrubs are similar than blackberries, but rather than the sole, sharp thorns on blackberry canes, raspberry thorns tend to be denser creating a “fuzzy” appearance. Though “fuzzy,” the thorns are sharp. Wear gloves and eye protection when pruning or harvesting in the raspberry patch to avoid injury.

Raspberry Plant Characteristics

Growing between two and 9 feet tall, depending on the variety, raspberry shrubs provide delicious fruits in the summer. The plants are biennial, producing canes that bear fruit in the second year. Delicate white or pale pink flowers blossom in spring, followed by berries in summer and into autumn. The particular harvest time varies among varieties. Raspberries grow well in full sun and slightly acidic soil. Dwarf varieties can be grown in pots or hanging planters.

Thornless Cultivars

Horticulturalists breed plants for certain characteristics. Most raspberry varieties grown specifically for a massive fruit harvest have thorns, but if you’d like a more friendly tree, choose a thornless selection. “Raspberry Shortcake” is a thornless dwarf variety that grows 2 to 3 feet tall and produces edible berries. The more standard 4- to 6-foot-tall “Canby Red” cultivar has canes that are almost thornless.

Growing Raspberries

When planting strawberries, place them in the dirt to ensure that the base of the stalks and the crown is just 1 inch below the soil line. Space multiple plants three to four feet apart. Prune in late winter to eliminate all of the canes that produced fruit the season before. These previous canes won’t produce fruit again. Employ a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer in spring. Use fertilizers as directed on the package label.

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How Do Vine Ripened Tomatoes Differ From Others?

  Mysest56        January 8, 2023

Tomato plants are a frequent garden crop prized by dwelling growers for the richly colored hot fruit that they produce. The word “vine-ripened” frequently inspires pictures of rich, red tomatoes which are perfectly ripe and bursting with flavor, but this is what it pertains to. Vine-ripened tomatoes vary from other tomatoes in the timing of harvest, which depends largely on color as well as the growth stage.

Regarding Vine-Ripened Tomatoes

Vine-ripened tomatoes are those that are picked at the breaker stage, which occurs when they show the first signs of changing color. Tomatoes are picked at this point to ensure optimum quality from the time the fruit gets to the supermarket or your table. Most consumers prefer a tomato that is at its peak maturity, therefore selecting the tomato after might result in a fruit that is soft or showing signs of rot at the time it reaches its final destination. Tomatoes continue to ripen off the vine, and the qualities necessary to make an excellent tomato are present when the first hint of shade appears at the blossom end, so a tomato picked until it’s fully ripe can have the same flavor as one selected later.

Coloration Stages

Ripeness phases for tomatoes are defined in accordance with criteria of shade. In stage one, the tomato is totally green, although the shade may vary from light to dark. Throughout the breaker stage, when most vine-ripened tomatoes are harvested, there is a clear distinction in color from green to tan-yellow. Pink and red coloration will not show on more than 10 percent of the fruit surface. The spinning phase of coloration includes tomatoes which have changed from green to tan-yellow, red and pink, or a combination of those colors on 10 percent to 30 percent of this surface. In the pink stage, the tomato is pinkish on 30 percent to 60 percent of this surface. Tomatoes from the light red stage are light to pinkish red over 60 percent to 90 percent of this surface. The sixth and final stage includes red tomatoes, which can be red on more than 90 percent of this surface.

Maturation Stages

Tomatoes may also be classed depending on the stage of maturity at harvest, which ranges from immature green through to fully ripened. Immature green tomatoes, or M-1’s, have immature white seeds which are easily cut, and they contain no gel from the cavities. These tomatoes don’t typically ripen to a high degree of quality. M-2 strawberries feature seeds have matured to a tan color and there is gel in at least two cavities when you cut the fruit. These tomatoes usually ripen to a moderate quality. Mature-green stage tomatoes, including M-3 and M-4 tomatoes, contain seeds which move aside when you cut the tomato. While all cavities have gel at the M-3 stage, the internal color remains green in this stage, but the tomatoes will ripen to high quality. By the time the tomato attains the M-4 stage, which can be when vine-ripened tomatoes are generally picked, there is some redness in the gel, but the tomato isn’t yet fully ripe.

Determining Quality

Tomato quality isn’t just determined by the time of harvest but also by the terms where the fruit is stored and how it’s handled during shipping. High-quality tomatoes which have never been picked too early and were not improperly stored or handled will ripen to a firm, swollen look. They will also demonstrate a uniform and shiny color with no physical harm like shriveling, decay or bruising.

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The way to Eliminate Crab Apple Fruit From the Lawn

  Mysest56        January 6, 2023

Crab apple (Malus spp.) trees grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. They’re grown for their attractive spring blooms and create small fruits, called crab apples, following the flowering period. With the exception of some larger crab apple varieties, the fruits are rarely eaten and mainly decorative. Some species may hold the fruit into winter, but the fruits out of many crab apple trees finally fall to the ground where they make an obstructive mess. As opposed to leave them to rot on the ground, you can remove them to keep a neatly manicured lawn.

Rake all the crab apples into one pile using a broom rake, also referred to as a leaf rake, which features a broad rake head with closely spaced teeth which are flexible, so that you can more readily control the management of this crab apples as you procrastinate.

Scoop up the pile of crab apples using a large scoop shovel or a flat scoop. If you don’t have a flat shovel or scoop shovel, you can flip the broom rake above and push the crab apples onto the rake head.

Place the crab apples in a wheelbarrow or bucket so you may move the fruit readily. You may have to rake the apples into a pile each time after choosing a shovel filled with apples.

Pick up any remaining crab apples together with your hands. When only a few crab apples stay on the ground, it is more sensible to choose them up individually than to rake and scoop the fruit.

Dump the wheelbarrow or bucket of crab apples onto a compost pile, or sprinkle them around the ground in an inconspicuous area for wild creatures to eat. A clearing in the forest or along the edge of a wooded area is a welcoming spot to provide food for deer, squirrels and other creatures. Alternatively, you can remove the crab apples together with your weekly garbage.

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